Knowing your hair type determines how well you are able to care for it, and 4c hair is coily because it is curlier than the usual curly hair. But with all sorts of classifications out there, the question may not have a really cut-and-dried answer until you dig deeper.

Read on to understand fully whether 4c hair is curly or coily.

Curly versus Coily: Differences Unravelled

Follicle Shape and Curl Pattern

Curly or coily hair begins with a follicular shape where oval follicle shapes produce curly hair, while a flatter oval follicle creates coily (curlier) hair.

Type 4 hair with all its three subclasses, at least if you go by the new typing by naturallycurly.com, is a naturally kinky hair. It is the type that characteristically has the tightest curls with a texture that could be anything between coarse and fine.

Wiry and delicate by nature, type 4 hair spans the range of s-shaped and z-shaped coils, and all else in between. Therefore, there cannot be one-size-fit-all for all the variations.

4c hair specifically is not curly but coily, and the difference is ocean-wide.

Let’s look carefully at each of the two words. As far as hair goes, curly or coily relate to the coil pattern.

On the surface of it, all Type 4c hair is curly, okay? But then, there are nuances as you move from one subcategory to the next. The coil pattern and other characteristics obviously vary.

Curly hair tends to be shaped like a large spring and is less flexible compared to coily hair. For example, wet curly hair can stretch to become almost straight only to re-curl on styling and drying.  

Coily hair is spring-shaped but has tighter coils (or larger springs) and tends to wrap around itself a lot more. Compared to curly hair, it is more brittle.

Then, the many turns of coils make it hard for the sebum to flow along the hair strands leaving the hair less moisturized. It means the hair then requires regular moisturizing routines.

At this point, we could do with examples. Coily hair types include tiny coils, afro-textured and kinky hair.

Texture

Hair texture also sets curls and coils apart in that while curly hair texture is either fine or soft, coily hair texture varies from fine and soft to coarse.

Further, 4c hair being coily implies that it needs heavier, oil-based oils to provide deeper hydration than curly hair. The latter requires lightweight, mostly water-based products so as to weigh down the strands.

You may also consider reading The 4C Hair Type: Everything You Need to Know (With Video Illustration)

Maintenance

Type 4c hair has its unique needs, which you have to consider to give it just the right kind of care—this we are only repeating and emphasizing. Consider the practices below.

Moisturizing

For example, when moisturizing 4c hair, go for deep conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and sealing oils. Is there a specific reason for this?

Detangling

You can never be too careful detangling 4c hair. Due to its delicate nature, it is prone to breakage. So, detangle it with care.

Turning to styling, I should state upfront that 4c hair is open to plenty of protective styling options in braids, twists, bantu knots, which minimize manipulation and therefore lead to less breakage.

Styling

Then, when it gets to heat-styling 4c hair is suited for low heat, or you may go the heat-free way. The coily nature of Type 4c hair is also apparent in how it is styled where it is possible to fashion into braids, twists or bantu knots mainly because its tight coils hold styles well.

Here is a related article on looking after 4c hair type.

Controversial Typing

As questions arise on whether 4c hair is curly or coily, we can’t help but remember some of the controversies around classifying hair.

You see, hair typing is a challenge that people have grappled with for a long time. Some have even used it as a racial superiority symbol and a tool for labelling and discrimination.

It does not help that there have been attempts by professionals to classify hair by features such as curl pattern.

Trichologist, Andre Walker’s chart, for example, today seems to be one of the blueprints for identifying hair types. But with its less detailed 1-to-4 spectrum, Walker’s typing falls short.

The chart lumps all the 4 types (and 3) into a couple of groups and ignores any other variations within the group. Thus, you have 1a, 1b,1c, 2a, 2b,2c, 3a,3b, 4a and 4b.

Accordingly, Walker’s typing has stoked controversy and continues to elicit debate. One of the doubtful voices is a celebrity Tiktoker and hair influencer, @hairbynay247 (Lazhane Hightower).

She captions her profile with a bold, “I honestly think there needs to be 10 sub textures, to each texture on the chart lol.. Everyone’s hair pattern is different and it’s not so easy to base it off a simple chart.”

Obviously unsatisfied with the chart, she poses, “As your coily hair starts retaining length and has more “weight” do you believe curls stretch? At that point should a new pattern be considered?”

Hers is a genuine concern that many share as they try to define their hair with some finality.

Naturallycurly waded into the hair typing controversy and plugged in 3c and 4c types. Andrew Walker’s chart stands challenged and factually modified now.

Other Popular Voices in the “Curly-Coily” Debate

Hair care influencers on YouTube have also weighed in on the typing debate, with the likes of LaToya Ebony Hair seeing it as a simple straightforward task. Sample this:

In conclusion,

Both curly and coily hair types are natural endowments that should be cherished, the They sure do have some things in common but curls and coils are different and each has its own specific needs that you must understand. This is what will make you care for your hair in the best possible way.

Type 4c hair is coily and not curly, although for some this might seem a little bit of a grey area. Yet for all the minor similarities that may exist, the shapes show clearly how different curls and coils are.

The type of care given to 4c hair also distinguishes it from the curly Type 4b. From moisturization needs to texture to level of versatility to heat-styling options, the differences are evident. 

4c hair is coily and not curly, and this has implications for how you care for it. However, understanding that should in no way be the gauge for what is the best hair or some other similar subjective consideration.

Curly or coily, each hair type is a gift which requires specific care to bring the best out of it. Therefore, understand your curl pattern and care for it the best way possible, and it will reward you with a glorious look.